Written by Mia Ferrante
What is a route setter? Well, they are the creative geniuses who play a key role in the development of the sport, as well as the development of athletes who push boundaries indoors and outdoors. Route setters design and construct routes and boulders for the use of indoor climbing. What started as a career that seemed out of reach for a small girl like me, grew into one of my biggest passions.
Identity
Shifting one's perspective from "how do I climb this", to "how will people climb this" is not only physically taxing, but mentally taxing. Identity played a crucial role in my route setting story. With a height of 5'1 and an ape index (the length from one finger tip to the other finger tip, minus your height) of -3, I always shock people with my dedication to such a vertical sport. After phases of being frustrated with my genetic luck, I developed one key belief system: My height does put me at a distinct disadvantage in this sport. Complaining, however, would get me nowhere; and if I was truly that frustrated with my odds, I can go find another sport. Instead, harness the strengths that my size gifts to me, and be thankful for the opportunities that have stemmed from my diverse outlook.
My identity became everything in my setting. From my innate value of equitability to my passion for learning, what started as my genetic "fault" turned into why I am continuously able to push boundaries on and off the wall.
Coaching
One fact I learned pretty quickly after diving into the world of route setting is that every route setter has their own personal motivations when creating indoor boulders/routes. Whether this motivation is conscious or unconscious, ethical or unethical, it greatly impacts the climbing that is produced by the setter. Some motivations I have identified include pushing climbers out of their comfort zone, making climbers stronger, developing new movement, and so on.
My motivation seemed to be a combination of many things. However, after gaining more experience, I developed a passion for watching what I call the lightbulb effect. Such an effect happens when a climber is struggling on a move, trying to wrap their head around a beta that may seem farfetched, incredibly hard, or maybe even impossible. In reality, it is extremely possible. After pushing past mental barriers, the climber finds the body position and a solution arises. Their eyes light up as they fly up the wall; amazed with how some extra time and effort can create a brand-new movement that their muscles will now remember for the rest of their climbing career. The light bulb effect.
As someone who is very passionate about climbing, I cherish the moments when I experience the lightbulb effect. Having the ability to create those moments and watch climbers actively grow drives me to become a better route setter.
Bolt and Revolt
Like many other sports, climbing has a dark underbelly that is commonly hidden from conversations and media. Diversity has been an important initiative of many in the community. However, especially in regards to the development of the route setting industry, gender continues to be a barrier for many across the country.
I wish I could say that I was lucky enough that my gender was a reason I began setting (which for many, it is, due to gyms looking for more diverse perspectives), but sadly, the dark underbelly of the industry sunk its dark teeth into my route setting career early on into my practice.
Bolt and Revolt Setting Coalition is a group of women, nonbinary, trans and gender-queer climbers and setters that have identified this flaw and seek to unravel it. With events, clinics, and webinars, Bolt and Revolt redefines what a setter should look like. I am grateful to have received a setter spotlight with the non-profit, where they shared photos of me along with an interview of my setting experience. In addition, the community included me in a post regarding disability pride month; making me feel welcomed into what can sometimes be a hostile industry.
Empathy
Looking back to when I first started setting, I have improved in ways that I could not have fathomed; in both climbing strength and route setting skills. I am proud of how far I have come, and attribute my success to one key lesson I have learned through my setting experience.
Route setting can be twisted into a game of pride for many, causing setters to forget that the climbs they create are not to boost ego, but to serve the individuals who will later climb them. When asked what skill is necessary to be a successful setter, I always answer empathy. Empathy allows you to put yourself in other people's perspectives, allowing setters to look past how they climb something and think about how people of different skill level and body types will climb it.
Empathy adds complexity to route setting. However, if we are to build a sport that is welcoming for a diverse range of athletes, empathy is key to creating climbs that are accessible and equitable.
Creativity
My mom is a painter. My dad, an entrepreneur. Both of which instrumental to the development of my unique outlook and interests. Although I am extreamly logical in my thought processes, my creativity pushed me to think outside the box, perfect for the intracesies of route setting. When setting over a long period of time, it is hard to stay creative with the boulders or routes you produce. However, remaining flexible with change and utilizing holds and wall angles that may not be as familiar to you helps push past the monotony that can plague a route setter. Setting is an art form. Maintaining a creative mindset is one of my strengths I am most proud of.
Competitions
One of the hardest, yet most exciting, parts of a route setter's role is setting for climbing competitions. After a grueling few days of setting, climbing, organizing, and prepping, route setters watch their ideas come to life as climbers fight for a spot on the podium at a competition. Along with my commercial setting experience, I am grateful to join the setting team for four competitions located in Florida and North Carolina. Comp setting taught me a different side of route setting, capitalizing on efficiency and equitability. After Beta Bash 2022, Zombie Disco 2022, Beta Bash 2023, and the Shindig 2023, I am proud to see my route setting skills grow.
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