Media's Effects on Climbing

01.

Overview of Research

          Media has proved to be a crucial factor in the development of sports, whether the goal is to gain public interest in a niche sport or to advertise a large sporting event. The increased access to digital technology and the internet has allowed individuals to use this recent mobile super-power to research training resources, as well as information regarding skills and techniques necessary to be successful in their sport of interest. Whether an athlete uses digital media as a form of entertainment or education, the increased ability to connect with others and access online information platforms has expanded our understanding of athletics and pushed previous boundaries of human potential. 

          Along with the increased coverage of sporting events, many previously niche sports have pushed themselves into the mainstream with the help of digital media. More specifically, adventure sports have seen a recent surge in interest (Posner, 2020). Heike Puchan (2004) describes what differentiates a traditional sport from an extreme sport from an adventure sport: traditional sports are commonly practiced and broadcasted, such as football or swimming; extreme sports contain the same competitive nature and test personal capacity with the added factor of risk (so they expand past the easily understood rules that traditional sports practice and add the element of danger, risk management, as well as unconventional rules and techniques); and adventure sports attribute themselves to a lifestyle, so they can be practiced as a hobby or for exercise but can also fill an athlete’s competitive drive. Skateboarding, surfing, skiing, and rock climbing are all examples of adventure sports (Puchan, 2004). 

          With the increased attention on adventure sports, rock climbing has catapulted onto screens through the growth of climbing gyms, the inclusion in the 2020 Olympic Games, and films such as Free Solo successfully receiving an Academy award in 2019 (Posner, 2020). The sport has grown from testing personal limits outdoors and establishing first ascents to training and competing in a gym setting with the support of thousands of online fans (Posner, 2004). Climbing’s increased media interest has allowed individuals that previously did not have the funds, knowledge, or the right environment to climb finally have access to competitions, lessons, and outdoor climbing area maps, making the sport more accessible than it has ever been before. However, the increase in accessibility has caused the outdoor climbing community to worry about the possible changes in the sport that they may have to navigate. 

          This paper delves into both the positive and negative effects digital media has on the development of outdoor rock climbing. I will begin my research through a literature review of recent observations and conclusions made regarding the relationship between media and rock climbing. My goal is to achieve a better understanding of three core themes involving climbing’s development through semi-structured interviews of climbers who are currently experiencing modern changes in the sport. The three core themes that will be discussed with each climber are social currency, environmental impact, and risk. After interviewing each participant, I will describe my findings and form a conclusion regarding two questions: How does the increased accessibility of outdoor rock climbing caused by digital media affect social capital, climbing environments, and risk management? What are the positive and negative effects of increased media coverage of outdoor rock climbing? 

02.

Literature Review

            Although indoor climbing gyms offer a safer alternative, risk management remains a crucial skill for any outdoor rock climbing. Risk management requires an accurate understanding of one’s skill level, as well as an accurate evaluation of perceived risk. Risk psychology has interested scholars, creating many hypotheses as to why exactly climbers make the decisions that they do. Scholars such as Catherine Palmer (2002), Lilly Posner (2020), and Tommy Langseth and Oyvind Salvesen (2018) have all questioned the role of media coverage affecting a climber’s ability to mitigate crucial risks. 

          In addition to risk psychology, there is minimal research on the media’s effects on indoor rock climbing leading up to the 2020 Olympic Games, notably regarding the role of social identity as a determining factor in climbers’ decision-making (Dumont, 2017; Holland-Smith, 2017; Puchan, 2004). As far as how the increased accessibility to the sport (thanks to digital media) affects climbing environments, little to no research has been done to understand the positives and negatives of the recent shift in cultural norms.

          Scholars seem to agree that the rise of digital media leads to an increase in accessibility in rock climbing (Dumont, 2017; Holland-Smith, 2017; Palmer, 2002; Posner, 2020). When referring to “accessibility” in outdoor climbing contexts, it is important to note the online resources that have made finding outdoor climbing areas, also known as crags, and networking with other climbers easier over the past decade. Apps such as Kaya, Mountain Project, and even websites like the Carolina Climbing Coalition all share free maps and directions to routes and boulders that were previously only reachable through expensive guidebooks or knowing local climbers (Holland-Smith, 2017). 

          Accessibility has grown a stronger and more connected climbing community. However, outdoor climbers have growing concerns about how accessibility will change the developing sport. Sharing the joys of climbing with new climbers is a fundamental aspect of the climbing culture. The increase in online resources has finally allowed many climbers who lack knowledge of the sport, lack connections with outdoor climbers, or lack the means to find climbing areas, to independently experience real rock (Palmer, 2002). The expansion of climbing brings up three major perceived effects on the sport: Inexperienced climbers or even non-climbers can (1) put themselves in dangerous situations due to lack of experience or knowledge, (2) base understanding and actions on online resources that could teach them wrong or unethical climbing practices, and (3) lead to a disrespect of outdoor crags because of their lack of understanding of the repercussions of their actions.

            In addition to risk psychology, there is minimal research on the media’s effects on indoor rock climbing leading up to the 2020 Olympic Games, notably regarding the role of social identity as a determining factor in climbers’ decision-making (Dumont, 2017; Holland-Smith, 2017; Puchan, 2004). As far as how the increased accessibility to the sport (thanks to digital media) affects climbing environments, little to no research has been done to understand the positives and negatives of the recent shift in cultural norms. Social currency, environmental impact, and risk all interact to create a new climbing culture, making it crucial to understand all three factors to maintain a sustainable developing sport. 

​

Social Currency in Outdoor Rock Climbing

          Social media have become a crucial tool for all athletes to network and create an online presence necessary to gain potential sponsors’ attention (Dumont, 2017). Platforms have also transformed climbing from an individualist lifestyle to a growing community (Posner, 2020). However, the rapid growth of rock climbing combined with society’s increased dependency on digital media has raised questions regarding the transformation of outdoor rock climbing. To understand the sport as a whole, it is crucial to first contextualize how media impact the social structure created within the context of the climbing community. 

          David Holland-Smith defines social capital as useful information or resources obtained through social connections and interactions (2017). Whether consciously or subconsciously, individuals within a community intrinsically seek out social capital within their communities. Digital media closes the gap between people separated by distance, making communication with other climbers across state and even country lines right at their fingertips. Social capital allows climbers to build reputations and connections, which is heavily associated with power and hierarchy within a social structure; making this form of currency an essential motivation for climbers to utilize online platforms (Holland-Smith, 2017).

          Holland-Smith (2017) applied the teachings of Bourdieu to conclude that climbers use conscious or unconscious strategies to acquire social capital, therefore increasing or maintaining their social status. Due to the competitive nature of rock climbing, creating an online presence becomes an essential step to maintaining a person’s social position in the climbing community, despite many traditional roots of outdoor rock climbing stemming from word-of-mouth communication. The traditional climbing community was built in the natural environment, directly contrasting with new forms of communication (Posner, 2020). Holland-Smith (2017) notes that although the messages and activities of outdoortraditional grading system and rules of outdoor rock climbing maintain intact, members of the traditional climbing community believe capital gained through digital means lacks authenticity, status, and legitimacy. When considering that most of the information and resources necessary to push personal climbing boundaries are now located online, exclusivity and barriers are created between old- and new-generation climbers (Holland-Smith, 2017).

          Although a climber’s motivations stem outside social networking, pushing personal climbing capacity automatically defines individuals within the social hierarchy where social capital increases recognition and prestige, eventually opening doors to resources and information (more capital) that will allow climbers to continue to push themselves (Langseth & Salvesen, 2018). Subcultures develop unique rules and practices that play an important role in obtaining social capital (Langseth & Salvesen, 2018). Grades were created to identify the difficulty of routes and boulder problems. Grading systems differ from region to region, but all follow a numerical scale with the same premise: the lower the number, the easier the climb is, and the higher the number, the harder the climb is. Each climb, whether it is a boulder or sport route, all receive a number that represents its difficulty. Grades also allow individuals to track progress, push personal limits and, in some cases, push human capacity. When achieving a high grade in regards to a climber’s skill level or place in the social hierarchy, catching the climb on video has become instrumental in proving your accomplishment to oneself and others. Considering first ascents or high-status routes/problems, an accomplishment is disregarded and even discredited by the climbing community without the validation gained from video footage. The grading system previously defined through trusting unbacked claims of ascents is redefined with the new value of video recording. 

          Social capital is a key factor in identifying oneself as a “climber” (Holland-Smith, 2017). Before social platforms closed the gaps created by distance in the climbing community, to be labeled a “climber” was to give up any life outside of climbing and become one of the very few bests in the world (Dumont, 2017; Posner, 2020). Guillaume Dumont (2017) explains the change in the process necessary to maintain a “climber” status, socially and economically. Sponsorships are key to maintaining an outdoor climbing lifestyle. The modern online marketplace has changed what sponsors define as “value” (Dumont, 2017). In contrast to sponsorships being few and far between, even for the top few elite athletes, value has shifted from skill to how skill is applied to gain the public's attention. The economic pressures created from low and insecure earnings in the climbing industry push people to build an online identity that is both compelling and relatable to audiences (Dumont, 2017; Posner, 2020). Due to skill not being the only determining factor for economic success, digital media is continuously closing the gap between amateurs and pros (Dumont, 2017). Although this makes the climbing lifestyle more accessible to more people, the key factor the sport revolves around, pushing personal physical and mental boundaries on the wall, decreases in value. The redefining of capital, hierarchy, and validation in outdoor rock climbing raises concerns among outdoor climbers on how digital media is impacting the sport they love. 

Risks to safety and the climbing environment

          From an outside perspective on the motivation of climbers, especially regarding taking risk, athletes are viewed as thrill seekers, causing many scholars to delve into the psychological explanation of why climbers participate in a fundamentally dangerous sport. Catherine Palmer (2002) combined a curiosity concerning risk-taking with how adventure sports are marketed to audiences. 

          Palmer’s work (2002) with the commercialization of adventure sports explains that as media technology increases, media practitioners take advantage of the dramatic nature of climbing and represent/portrays the dangerous aspects for profit. As niche adventure sports gain interest, the search for “thrills, rush, excitement, and exhilaration” attracts individuals seeking risk instead of people who respect the practices of the sport (p. 325). Companies represent risk as a “high cool factor”, directly relating to Holland-Smith’s social capital, pushing people to experience risky situations and post them online (Holland-Smith, 2017; Palmer, 2002, p. 325). Considering that risk mitigation is an essential skill for outdoor climbing success, media portraying risk as being “central to the aesthetic” minimizes the real dangers to sport development and the safety of climbers (Palmer, 2002, p. 330). Palmer states, “Every great disaster, if marketed correctly, can be sold for profit” (2002, p. 332).

          The research of Heike Puchan describes the nature of adventure sports and how risk is a crucial obstacle climbers are consistently having to navigate. Puchan (2004) defines risk as “the notion of an unexpected outcome” (p. 172), adding another challenge to rock climbing that is instrumental in many outdoor climbers’ motivation. Experienced climbers consistently take calculated risks, where athletes evaluate the value of risk or contrast the possible unwanted outcomes with the possible rewards (Posner, 2020; Puchan, 2004). Similarly to Palmer, Puchan (2004) recognizes the increase in companies labeling climbing as the “next big fitness craze”, ignoring the dangers to lives and the environment (p. 173). The financial losses in broadcast sports such as football have pushed marketers to sell climbing as an “interesting and sexy activity to do” (p. 174). The portrayal of climbing as mainstream or casual exercise gives the impression that nothing goes wrong when practicing adventure sports.

          Langseth and Salvesen (2018) emphasize the commitment it takes to become a climber; a fundamental aspect of the sport that is left out of media portrayal. Climbers take years to prepare and minimize risks, as well as understand how to navigate situations if they do arise (Langseth & Salvesen, 2018). “Risk libido” occurs when the media portrays risks as casual and cool, making risk-taking logical and rational to unskilled participants, instilling a form of false confidence (Langseth & Salvesen, 2018). Lilly Posner (2020) describes the shift from climbing previously being a “private, individualized sport” to a “public spectacle” (p. 2). Unskilled climbers view outdoor risks as casual, making them more likely to seek out danger and intensify risks to increase their reputation and online identity (Posner, 2020). Posner lists many fatal examples of risk libido, including the live-streamed death of a man referred to as Tedzu, falling from a free solo of Mt. Fuji (2020). 

         Free solo is the act of climbing a route without a rope or equipment. This dangerous activity became the public image of outdoor rock climbing with the success of “Free Solo”, a film about Alex Honnold’s free solo of El Capitan in Yosemite. The streaming of Honnold’s accomplishment proves to viewers that (1) risk sells, and (2) practicing unsafe ascents is essential to rock climbing (Posner, 2020). 

          With the research of these scholars along with many others, their work proves that risk is a critical factor in the development of outdoor rock climbing. Although digital media increases the accessibility of climbing in the short term, the misunderstanding of risks by unskilled participants could dramatically decrease the accessibility to outdoor crags in the long term. Organizations such as Access Fund are continuously fighting to maintain and expand climbing areas to continue making the sport accessible to all. Climbers have historically struggled to access good outdoor climbing locations due to rock quality, private land ownership, neighborhoods, national park regulations, or concerns regarding complex ecosystems. Making land usable for the sport takes years of campaigning and funding. 

          With the research of scholars into risk and social capital, the understanding of why climbers depend on digital media is clear. The skewed motivations and understanding of outdoor climbing potentially create problematic boundaries to the accessibility of crags many climbers rely on. The disrespect of the environment, injuries or fatalities, and even broken or degraded rock are all factors that lead to areas being legally closed by landowners, government bodies, and organizations. Although accessibility is helping climbers push past previous boundaries, the effects on social capital, risk management, and environmental access are leading outdoor rock climbers to question the benefits of digital media on the development of the sport.